Meat, Poultry and Game

Game newly in season includes pheasant and woodcock, although both will make better eating next month. Grouse is at its very best, with stiff competition from partridge and wood pigeon.

There should be no mystique about cooking prime quality game birds. Enjoy their succulence and flavour simply by spatchcock-grilling or barbecuing them as you would a whole spring chicken. Cut all the way along the backbone, flatten out the bird by pushing down on the breast, season both sides well with salt and pepper, brush with a little olive oil, then cook under a pre-heated grill, or on a glowing barbecue, for 10-25 minutes – turning once or twice – until it is done. Serve with a dollop of plain or herbed butter, wedges of lemon and some crisp salad.