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Fish and Seafood

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By Jeremy Round

Published 1988

  • About

Having said goodbye to the summer crustacea, this is a good month for rediscovering the British seaside-prom heritage of cockles, whelks and winkles, still perfectly good doused with pepper and vinegar. Early cross-Channel shoppers to Ostend might try Flemish warme wullocks (whelk stew) sold from stalls along the harbour walls.

Huss is a neglected fish – perhaps the legacy of being the cheapest thing on chip shop boards (often retitled rock salmon); its cartilaginous nature makes it good for cold weather stews. Other as yet socially deprived seasonal fish worth getting to know are grey mullet (its lowly status with many fishmongers being because they associate with β€˜ethnic’ cuisines) and eel (although London still has its queues outside places which sell it jellied with parsley liquor).

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