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By Jeremy Round
Published 1988
Having said goodbye to the summer crustacea, this is a good month for rediscovering the British seaside-prom heritage of cockles, whelks and winkles, still perfectly good doused with pepper and vinegar. Early cross-Channel shoppers to Ostend might try Flemish warme wullocks (whelk stew) sold from stalls along the harbour walls.
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