Sformato, Torta Salata, and Tortino

The Italian kitchen has a sizable repertory of savory puddings and pies that may be served as primi or contorni, or as main courses for a lighter meal. Sformati, which are found all over the country, are essentially custard puddings, or flans, and are among the easiest of this big family to make. Your only anxiety may come when you need to unmold them (sformare means “to unmold”). You can try using a nonstick ring mold, tube pan, or baking pan as insurance, or you can line the bottom of the baking dish with buttered baker’s parchment, which guarantees a better “release.” You can also use custard cups, which are much easier to unmold because of their size; just remember to reduce the cooking time. Test the pudding with the point of a knife. When it emerges clean, the pudding is ready. Let it sit for 10 minutes, then run a knife blade around the inside edge of the dish, invert a serving plate on top, and invert the mold and the plate together. Finally, lift off the mold. If this is too much pressure, tradition can be disregarded. You can bake the mixture, cut it into squares or wedges, and serve it directly from the mold.