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Simplicity

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By Jeremiah Tower

Published 2002

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Food should be beautiful, but it should look like food all the same—and taste the way it looks. I could write another fifty pages trying to define this magic word, even when we all know the meaning. Do read the introductory section in Richard Olney’s Simple French Food (1974) called “Simple Food.”

Whether simple food is “classical” (a perfect beef tenderloin sauced with foie gras and black truffles), or “pure” (a game bird roasted on a spit and served with its own juices), or “rustic” (white beans cooked with wild boar pancetta and cipollini onions, as on page 225), it is always presented with the courage and discipline to leave well enough alone, letting the ingredients dictate their own conceit and not the cook’s. Certainly the further a cooking style gets from the best that a great home cook can do, the more trouble the dish is in and the thinner the ice the cook is standing on.

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