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Butter

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By Jeremiah Tower

Published 2002

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Enjoy this most glorious of foods in moderation, and never eat it when it has been subjected to high heats. After you’ve cooked something in butter, drain the food for a second or two on paper towels and, if you are making a sauce in the pan, wipe the pan out thoroughly (without dislodging the wonderful bits stuck to the pan) to get rid of the cooked butter, then deglaze the pan and make your sauce by adding a tablespoon or two of fresh butter without ever letting it boil.

Treat yourself to French butter, or some of the new American ones made in the European style. They taste better, and their lower water content makes it easier to get the right consistency with sauces.

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