Whatever variety you buy, make sure you grind your own, either fresh from a mill each time, or at the beginning of a heavy cooking day, grind a batch in an electric grinder and have it handy in a little ramekin by the stove. When very coarse black pepper is called for, sieve out the “dust” and keep it for general cooking.
Putting aside for the moment the other uses of the word “pepper,” as in Sichuan pepper, pink peppercorn, Melegueta pepper, Jamaica pepper (allspice), chili pepper, bell pepper, and so on, let’s concentrate on black and white pepper, or Piper nigrum.