Northern Italian Rice

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Jeremiah Tower Cooks

By Jeremiah Tower

Published 2002

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Basically there are two techniques for cooking rice with broth added slowly throughout the cooking process to end up with the Italian dish called risotto. In one method, the flavoring is added at the beginning of the cooking (for those ingredients that need a lot of cooking to develop their taste); in the other, the flavoring is added at the very end (for those ingredients that are already cooked, or will lose their fresh flavors and real colors with long cooking).

The rice used in this slow stewing process should be chosen for its ability to take up the cooking liquids evenly, with the grains remaining firm and separate. The large, high-gluten grains of Carnaroli and Vialone are what to look for, especially since they are categorized as “superfine” grade quality. My favorite varieties are Carnaroli and Vialone, but if all you can find is superfine Arborio, then by all means use that, although it does not hold together as well as the other two.