Choosing Fish

The process of selecting fish in the market is not as straightforward as buying a cut of meat. The sea is unpredictable and in rough weather supplies fall and prices rise. Some fish migrate as water temperatures change, remaining seasonal despite modern transport, for example shad, herring and many other oily fish. The first rule when buying is to select fish that looks fresh, rather than choosing a variety that ought to be fresh. Luckily a fish in impeccable condition is easy to spot. When fresh, the flesh has a bright translucent clarity and a sweet smell, without trace of fishy odor. The scales should be intact and shiny, the eyes full, not sunken, and the gills a bright red. When poked, the flesh should feel firm and resilient. (In spawning season, which varies for different fish, the flesh softens and is inferior.) Fillets should not be dry or discolored, nor should they be surrounded by liquid (a sign of old or improperly frozen fish). Fish that has been treated chemically to extend shelf-life usually has an unnatural shininess and a slippery feel.