Sorbets, Ice Creams & Frozen Desserts

The key to good sorbet and ice cream is smoothness; the ice crystals that form naturally during freezing must be forestalled. This is accomplished by stirring the mixture constantly, usually by machine. The higher the proportion of water, the more easily ice crystals form, and therefore the more thoroughly it must be stirred. This is why sorbets, particularly those based on wine or on fruit juices rather than fruit purées, are quite hard to make. On the other hand, very rich mixtures such as parfaits and bombes with a high proportion of eggs and cream, freeze smoothly with no stirring at all. Good sorbets and ice creams should also be light from the air absorbed during churning; sorbets may be lightened further by adding whipped egg white or meringue halfway through freezing, while parfaits and bombes are lightened with whipped eggs and cream. One commercial ruse is to increase bulk by adding air, as can be shown by weighing equal volumes of commercial and homemade ice cream.