Saucing

Do not let drained pasta sit in the colander waiting for the sauce to be finished or reheated. The sauce must be ready when the pasta is. Transfer cooked, drained pasta without a moment’s delay to a warm serving platter or bowl. For egg pasta, use the broader surface of a platter, because it is too delicate to be piled deep in a bowl. The instant it’s in the platter or bowl, start tossing it with the sauce. If grated cheese is called for, add some of it immediately, and toss the pasta with it. The heat will melt the cheese and it will mingle creamily with the sauce. If the fat in the sauce was olive oil, dribble some raw oil over the pasta. If it was butter, add a few dollops of fresh butter.