Canned Tomatoes

The ideal tomato is fresh, firm, ripened on the vine, but even when available, its season is short. Cooking with out-of-season tomatoes, no matter how fetching they may look, will prove a disappointment. You will not be disappointed, however, with high-quality canned tomatoes. The best are the San Marzano variety, and the label should state “packed in Italy,” not just “Italian-style.” They should be whole, firm, and deep red in color. Do not buy crushed, chopped, or pureed tomatoes, which are made from tomatoes that are not perfect enough to be packed whole. Do not give your preference to cans that contain a basil leaf in addition to the tomatoes. Not that it does any harm; it is merely useless.