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Published 1997
Rice for risotto must satisfy two complementary but separate requirements: On the kernel’s surface it must have a soft starch, part of which will dissolve in the cooking to produce a clinging, creamy texture; and within the kernel it must have a different starch that will stay firm and give the cooked rice an al dente consistency. If you look at a single grain of rice against the light, you will see both starches—the firm one, chalky white in the center of the kernel, the soft one translucently surrounding it.
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