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By Joyce Goldstein

Published 1998

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If you prefer red wine, serve a lighter- to medium-bodied one with some spice: an Italian Dolcetto, a spicy cru Beaujolais, or a Barbera. California Gamay or a rustic Pinot Noir (not the breed of Gevrey-Chambertin!) will work, too. Among the white, that will go well are Italian Sauvignon Blanc, Verdicchio, or Vernaccia; a French Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé; or a more earthy California Sauvignon Blanc.

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