Red: a medium Rhône (Gigondas, Saint-Joseph, Côtes-du-Rhône), a Tuscan Rosso di Montalcino or Chianti, or a Barbera, Dolcetto, or Nebbiolo d’Alba from Piedmont; a zippy California Zinfandel or Syrah, rich Spanish reds like a young Rioja, or a southwestern French red such as Minervois or Corbières.