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By Joyce Goldstein

Published 1998

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A soft fruity red would meld well: a simpler Bordeaux or Burgundy, an easy-drinking Australian Shiraz, or a Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile; A very rich white like Tokay or Riesling from Alsace (with enough texture to stand up to the butter), or a full-bodied California Chardonnay. Sparkling wines are not a good idea here.

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