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By Joyce Goldstein

Published 1998

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Full-bodied and spicy whites are the best accompaniments: Chardonnay from California, Burgundy, Australia, or the Americas Northwest; Sémillon from France (Graves) or Australia; crisp and earthy Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. Although reds are not ideal, a good Provençal rosé or Tavel from the Rhône Valley will work.

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