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By Joyce Goldstein

Published 1998

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This dish lends itself to many options. For whites, the slightly spicy and hot charmoula and the smoky and pungent flavors of the grilled vegetables seem to crave an aromatic, spicy, and slightly off-dry wine: a German Kabinett or Spatlese Riesling, certain American Rieslings and Chenin Blancs, or Chenin Blancs from the Loire. A Gewürtztraminer can be lovely, as can a more substantial Chenin Blanc.

A light, fruity red would be acceptable, but the tuna demands a wine with some body: a lighter Rhône (Grenache or Syrah) or a Gamay, such as a Beaujolais.

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