This dish calls for rich, full-flavored whites with a minimal emphasis on wood (the flavor from aging in oak barrels). Wines stressing greener and more herbal flavors, such as a Sauvignon Blanc, would be good matches. Full-flavored rosé wines (Vin Gris, Tavel, or a dry blush type) would match well, as would a spicy, light Pinot Noir.
© 1998 Joyce Goldstein. All rights reserved.