Off-dry whites of some substance are called for here: Chenin Blanc or German or American Riesling. Certain full-bodied whites, such as Chardonnay, are powerful enough to penetrate the flavors and have some persistence. Soft and easy-drinking reds of light peppery and spicy flavors, such as certain Zinfandels, might also work (be careful, for it’s easy to clash with the lemon).
© 1998 Joyce Goldstein. All rights reserved.