Medium-rich green and youthful whites are best here: Sauvignon Blanc from France (Loire or Graves); Verdicchio, Vernaccia, and Arneis from Italy; austere Chardonnays from around the world. Other possibilities include soft and supple reds with some light tannins—medium-weight Italian reds, Pinot Noirs, Beaujolais, soft Rhône reds (Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage), or Rioja.
© 1998 Joyce Goldstein. All rights reserved.