Mainly lighter- to medium-bodied red wines are needed here. Something of a more Italian flavor is perhaps best: Barbaresco, Barbera, Nebbiolo d’Alba, or Chianti. Pinot Noirs, Zinfandels, and lighter-style Bordeaux wines are also agreeable. White is tough here, but if you must, choose a full-bodied and complex white with slight smoky flavor: Pouilly-Fumé might be best.
© 1998 Joyce Goldstein. All rights reserved.