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By Joyce Goldstein

Published 1998

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Medium-bodied red wines, with soft tannins, are best here. Italian wines are nice “ethnically”: Chianti or Rosso di Montalcino, Venetian and Friulian Merlot, and Piedmontese reds like Barbera and Nebbiolo d’Alba. French counterparts such as Côtes-du-Rhône or Cotes de Provence, and easy-drinking reds from the Loire—Chinon and Bourgueil—also meld well. American Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Gamay and muscular white wines like Vernaccia, Greco di Tufo, and Arneis from Italy, Chardonnays from around the world with an emphasis on herbal flavors are other choices. Rosés too, if highly flavored, can work here.

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