Full-bodied, vigorous, and muscular white wines: Sauvignon Blanc from Graves in France, Sancerre, and Pouilly-Fumé, Vernaccia, American and Australian Chardonnay, simple yet distinctive white Burgundy (Mâcon-Villages, Rully, Montagny, Saint-Véran). Softer reds, like Dolcetto, Barbera, Gattinara, and Merlot, match well, as do firm and flavorful rosés. But why not match this dish with a bottle of young Orvieto—the wine from its birthplace!
© 1998 Joyce Goldstein. All rights reserved.