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By Joyce Goldstein

Published 1998

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Full-bodied, vigorous, and muscular white wines: Sauvignon Blanc from Graves in France, Sancerre, and Pouilly-Fumé, Vernaccia, American and Australian Chardonnay, simple yet distinctive white Burgundy (Mâcon-Villages, Rully, Montagny, Saint-Véran). Softer reds, like Dolcetto, Barbera, Gattinara, and Merlot, match well, as do firm and flavorful rosés. But why not match this dish with a bottle of young Orvieto—the wine from its birthplace!

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