This dish cries for a regional French wines from the south, hearty but refined: Bandol or Palette from Provence, Hermitage from the Rhône, a good sturdy red from Bordeaux or a straightforward and flavorful Madiran or Bergerac from the southwest. California Cabernets or Merlot, Italian Barbaresco, and Australian Cabernet Sauvignon are also good.
© 1998 Joyce Goldstein. All rights reserved.