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By Joyce Goldstein

Published 1998

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This dish cries for a regional French wines from the south, hearty but refined: Bandol or Palette from Provence, Hermitage from the Rhône, a good sturdy red from Bordeaux or a straightforward and flavorful Madiran or Bergerac from the southwest. California Cabernets or Merlot, Italian Barbaresco, and Australian Cabernet Sauvignon are also good.

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