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By Joyce Goldstein

Published 1998

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This is a very diverse dish due to the simple seasoning and the “neutral” mode of cooking. Beer is just wonderful here. For wines, soft and fruity red wines (Dolcetto, Barbera, Gattmara, Merlot) or full-bodied whites (Sauvignon Blanc, Graves, Sancerve, Pouilly- Fumé). Clean and spicy rosé wines, such as Sancerre rosé and Bandol rosé, are lovely.

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