Here are needed rich earthy white wines with pungent, strong flavor. Vernaccia, Greco di Tufo, Verdicchio, and Tocai Friulano from Italy; from France, some of the earthier southern French whites of Provence and the Midi; Pinot Gris from both Oregon and Alsace in France; and soft reds such as Grignolino, Valpolicella, Spanna, and Montepulciano d’Abruzzi.
© 1998 Joyce Goldstein. All rights reserved.