This wants big and intense Italian reds, rich and mouth-filling: Barolo, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Taurasi. From France, red Burgundy of a fruitier style (Volnay, Savignyles-Beaune); Provençal and Rhône reds of some substance, honest reds like Madiran, Bergerac, and Minervois. In California, Barbera, Zinfandel, and Syrah would be harmonious. Softer Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile would marry well.
© 1998 Joyce Goldstein. All rights reserved.