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Rice

Appears in
Memories of Philippine Kitchens

By Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan

Published 2006

  • About

Grinding rice and peanuts.

Rice terraces.

Rice defines and localizes me. Growing up in Manila and living for several decades in New York City, there are times when I need to figure out who I am. Every time I reach out for rice, it tells me that I am Asian—specifically, I am Filipino. The reflexive gesture informs me that the proper seasoning and flavors of the accompanying dishes can only be negotiated when eaten with rice.

No Filipino can survive without rice. It is the center point of the meal, defining the final taste of everything consumed with it. It is not a side dish. We do not like it parboiled, nor do we like it dressed like a potato with butter or salt. We like it properly steamed, not dry, not mushy. And we eat rice at breakfast, lunch, merienda, and dinner. Leftover cooked rice is fried with garlic in the morning, and freshly simmered and steamed rice accompanies other meals. Filipino cooks turn to rice when adapting borrowed recipes, as in the ground rice that replaces corn in Filipino tamales and empanadas.

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