Traditionally rice was washed, then placed in a banana leaf–lined clay pot with water to the depth of the second line of the middle finger touching the rice. The covered pot would be simmered over a wood fire until the water was almost gone, then taken off the heat to let the rice settle at the final, critical stage, called in-in. This method was retained as stainless steel and gas or electric heat were adopted, but many people will tell you that even in this transition, much of the flavor and romance of rice disappeared.