Mint

This would have to be my desert-island herb, which surprises me, because I did not use it for years. It took me a long time to get past my loathing of mint sauce. Tarragon used to be my favourite, when I loved cooking poulet à I’estragon and adding the pungently anise-scented herb to creamy fish sauces. Also in the seventies, living in north London and shopping at Cypriot grocers’, I would use coriander with everything. Then basil became a passion, and I would bring large bunches back from every trip to Italy, some for pesto, some for salads. I still love these herbs, and to them would add chervil, savory and lovage.