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Fun with Meat Glue

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By David Chang and Peter Meehan

Published 2009

  • About
Once Ssäm Bar was up and running and the burritos were behind us and the kitchen was pounding away on all cylinders, I wanted very much to elevate our cooking. I wanted to be and I thought we needed to be, educated about all techniques and cooking methods—not just how to grill a steak (though without that, you’ve got no starting point), but what creative, progressive cooks were doing with the new powders and technologies that are expanding the realm of “cooking” past hot fire and sharp knives.
I used the example of a heart surgeon when I talked about it with the crew: a surgeon who’s been practising for thirty years and knows every trick in the book still has to stay on top of the advances being made in his or her field. What are the newest ways to save a heart, what’s the least invasive way of opening up a chest? Some medical methods might be more effective on one patient or another, so that comprehensive knowledge the surgeon acquires means he or she has, at his or her immediate disposal, medical methods from the very old to the very new. Maybe the doctor rejects the new methods in favor of the old ones in most cases, but those decisions do not release the surgeon from the need to stay up on advances made by science. The example doesn’t need to be so highfalutin: if a plumber swears by copper only, rejects PVC pipe and has no idea what kind of tape or insulation to use with it, that plumber is of limited usefulness and skill.

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