There is a movement to demonize foie gras as the product of some kind of perverse abuse of animals perpetrated exclusively in the name of oligarchs who pay top dollar for it. All I can say to that is this: bullshit.
I’m sure there are absolutely fucking horrible places round the world doing terrible things to ducks in the name of foie gras. But that’s not the case at Hudson Valley (our local producer and one of very few foie gras farms in North America is there) and I very, very strongly doubt it’s the case at any top-flight foie gras operation. Just after we’d opened Ko, after we’d decided we’d be serving foie gras, we got a bunch of the guys together and took a trip up there to see and learn more about foie instead of just buying into an opinion about it.