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Eat in the Middle

Makan Tengah

Appears in
Mortar and Pestle: Classic Indonesian Recipes for the Modern Kitchen

By Patricia Tanumihardja

Published 2024

  • About
Indonesians, like many other Asian cultures, often eat family style, what we call makan tengah, or “eat in the middle.” There is usually a staple, most often rice but maybe corn or cassava, and an assortment of dishes in the center of the table. Everyone helps themselves to the various dishes and composes a personal meal.

When I was growing up, dinner was the one meal we shared together as a family. Julia would set a big bowl of rice on the table accompanied by a soup, vegetables, and/or protein—perhaps fish, chicken, or tofu. The dishes varied by cooking methods—deep-fried, boiled, curried, grilled, or stewed—to achieve a blend of flavors and textures. We’d take turns scooping rice onto our plates and then help ourselves to the side dishes. We would usually eat with a fork and spoon and sometimes our fingers. Soups were either ladled into small bowls or directly onto the rice. Like clockwork, sambal, kecap manis, and some crispy krupuk (crackers) would also appear.

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