Empieza el Camino

I WAS HEADING DOWN THE AUTOPISTA ON THE WAY TO CÁCERES. IT WAS LATE SPRING IN 2008 BUT THE EXTREMEÑAN SUN WAS ALREADY HOT. THE COUNTRY WAS GREEN BUT TURNING TO BROWN ON THE HILLS AND RIDGES. THE NEW ROAD BYPASSED ALMOST EVERY TOWN. MY ONLY COMPANY WERE THE PIGS POKING THEIR SNOUTS OUT OF THE TRUCKS AS I OVERTOOK THEM ON THEIR WAY TO THE JAMÓN FACTORY. I TURNED ON THE RADIO. THE PROGRAM OF MOURNFUL FLAMENCO MUSIC GAVE WAY TO NEWS, THEN A DISCUSSION ON THE LATEST CONTROVERSY. IT WAS A NATIONAL SCANDAL: A SPANISH CHEF, THE TRADITIONALIST SANTI SANTAMARÍA, HAD VERBALLY ATTACKED ANOTHER CHEF, FERRAN ADRIÀ, A CUTTING-EDGE POSTMODERNIST. SANTAMARÍA HAD CRITICISED ADRIÀ FOR HIS USE OF ARTIFICIAL ADDITIVES, GELS, THICKENERS AND PRESERVATIVES AT THE EXPENSE OF LOCALLY PRODUCED ORGANIC INGREDIENTS. IT SEEMED EVERYBODY IN SPAIN HAD AN OPINION AND IT HIGHLIGHTED THE DEEP CONFUSION THAT THE SPANISH HAD TOWARDS THEIR OWN FOOD. AN EXPERT WITH A DEEP VOICE TEXTURED BY TOBACCO ASKED A SERIES OF QUESTIONS THAT SPOKE VOLUMES. BUT WHAT IS TRADITIONAL SPANISH FOOD? WHAT DO PEOPLE EAT IN THEIR HOMES TODAY? THEY ARE JUST AS LIKELY TO EAT A PRE-PREPARED MEAL FROM THE SUPERMARKET,’ HE SAID. I TRULY FEAR THAT THE FOUNDATIONS OF OUR FOOD ARE BEING UNDERMINED.’