Gemma Peyri is one of a handful of Catalan women who are championing the food of their past. For many this is not necessarily a popular idea, as for them the past connotes poverty. Gemma, however, finds beauty in the simplicity and honesty of the traditional food of her region. She has been a pioneer in the Priorat, encouraging guests from all over Spain and around the world to try the beautiful but simple local cuisine. Her kitchen is perched on top of a bluff looking over a valley filled with hazelnut trees growing above a little stream. In her kitchen she skilfully and caringly prepares the meals for her family and guests. As a chef I recognise the grace and beauty with which she handles her produce, some of which she has grown, and the rest of which she has carefully selected from growers, farmers and fishermen from around the Tarragona region. Below she reflects on days gone by.