Two Green Mango Chutneys

Make these chutneys when you can find hard green mangoes. These mangoes should be white inside, distinguishing them from the mangoes picked to ripen over time, which are yellow, regardless of how hard they are in the bin. In Bombay, young green mangoes signal a change in season from the cooler winter months to the seemingly endless hot months before the monsoon. When they appear on trees or at markets, it’s pickle- and chutney-making time. My mother with her tiny household didn’t do much pickle making, but with my father’s family full of ardent chutney and pickle makers, she didn’t have to, since my grandmother and aunts kept us generously supplied with his favorites. What they couldn’t make, we bought from Poonjiaji’s, Parsi makers and exporters of the famous Major Grey’s mango chutney.