Although I think of myself as ‘almost a vegetarian’, happy to exist on dishes of grain, pasta and vegetables most days of the week, I still rely on meat or fish for a special occasion. Many of my friends, even one of my children, call themselves vegetarian, but they still eat fish, and this makes dinner parties no problem whatsoever. Trying to create a festive meal without meat or fish, or quantities of butter and cream, which I prefer to do without anyway, is both demanding and challenging, but fun.