Martha Rose Shulman’s Thanksgiving

The reason I chose to be a cook in the first place has as much to do with my sense of conviviality as it does with my passion for cooking good, healthy food. Give me an excuse for a celebration and the table will be set. Sharing food and wine with friends and family is what Thanksgiving is all about, and for this reason it’s my favourite holiday.

Every year my menu changes. I don’t miss the turkey, but I couldn’t do without the trimmings - the pumpkin, sweet potatoes, cranberries, and the other foods that are at the height of their season in late November - pears, mushrooms, dark leafy vegetables. Choosing one of those foods as the basis for a main dish is a challenge I enjoy.