Noodle i-d 14 Somen

What

Elegantly thin white noodles made from a hard wheat dough moistened with sesame seed or cottonseed oil. They are traditionally eaten cold, although they are sometimes served in a warm broth. This is the supermodel version of udon (see Noodle i-d 13), its country cousin.

Why

Because of their finesse and charm. Here is a noodle that dances on the tongue like a light shower, barely there, with a haunting, teasing texture.

Where

Philippines: miswa. Malaysia: bamee. Other: Japanese somen are also extremely popular in Korea, where they are often used as a foil for spicy, mouth-searing sauces.