Down by the Docks

Reif market in Fez straggles along a half-covered alleyway below street level, like a subterranean labyrinth bisecting the two historic halves of the medina. Its deep shadows, trellis patterns and cool air fee, far removed from the harsh sunshine bouncing off the biscuit-coloured walls above. Reif is not like Souk Attarine, the intoxicating parade of scents and spice at the more touristy top of the hill, where narrow donkey- and mule-packed lanes make up the inner medina. This more functional market lies at the base of the hill, next to an open plaza that buzzes with buses and petits taxis. Modern ease of access makes it a magnet for the more practical members of the food-obsessed population.