Marble Temples in the Sky

‘Before landing,’ a gentle Indian voice announced over the intercom on our flight to Gujarat, ‘we shall be serving heavy snacks’, but the little vegetable samosas were crisp and delicate, not heavy at all. Delicacy is what I remember when I think of the food of Gujarat, India’s westernmost state. The predominant religion is Jain, an ancient sect that preaches non-violence and respect for all living beings, including insects. As a consequence, an exquisite and unique vegetarian cuisine has developed due to strict rules: only the leaves, seeds and beans of vegetables can be eaten, not the roots as insects might be killed in the digging up. The successful business community in Gujarat evolved because Jains became traders, since farming involved killing animals. Of all Indians, they are the most protective of the cow and never wear leather. Jain monks even tie gauze over their mouths to prevent inadvertently swallowing flies, and they don’t eat after 5pm because of the evening rush of insects in the air. They also bandage their feet to avoid crushing crawling things and they even sweep the ground in front of them as they walk to clear it of any living creature.