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Crunch Time

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By Ben Shewry

Published 2012

  • About

I knew that the first review would be make or break for us. Get a bad review with mounting debts and very few customers and you’re a goner. I had seen it plenty of times before. It was a Friday night when the then head food critic for The Age newspaper, John Lethlean, walked in. He sat on magic table six.

The restaurant manager came to the pass to tell me who had arrived and I felt a sick feeling in my stomach. I was petrified but tried to hide it from my staff and secretly wished I could swap jobs with the kitchen hand. Fortunately it was a good service, but food critics rarely give anything away and it was an anxiety-filled three-week wait until we would learn his views on the latest incarnation of Attica.

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