In too many restaurants, the appetizers are dramatically better than the much more expensive entrées. Here’s why I think this is: most chefs make up their menus from the top down. By the time they get to the main courses, they often have used up all their inspirations on the first courses. And they revert to mere trend-following when they get to the steaks, chicken, and fish. The best chefs have enough in their heads to devise menus full of interesting food. But the less-than-best chefs are also out there, working.