Basic Botany

Looking through the notes taken on my first trip to the pepper plantations in Kerala, I come across a list of questions for Dr Thampi of the Indian Spices Board: ‘Where does white pepper come from?’ ‘How does black pepper become black?’ ‘Are red peppercorns the same as pink ones?’ ‘Why is green pepper usually dried or brine-cured?’

The answers seem obvious now, but at the time I was as confused as the ancient Romans who believed white pepper came from a different plant, and that black pepper was the fruit of long pepper. The fact that I had to ask these questions made me realise how few of us stop to give pepper a second thought, even though it is so much part of our culinary lives.