Starters

‘Starters’ is a bit of a formal expression for the average Iranian menu. It is true that the Tehran smart-set has developed some depressingly Western habits over the years, and they do delight in serving up a proper three-course repast when the occasion suits. Before a traditional Persian meal, however, it is more likely that a range of light and wholesome morsels will be offered, something akin to meze or tapas. The word meze is in fact Persian in origin, deriving from the noun mazeh or taste – a fact of which I was blissfully ignorant until the lovely Helen Saberi, herself the author of a wonderful book of Afghan food, enlightened me. As Iranians believe in nutritional balance, so their starters are designed to complement the meal which they are about to consume: fresh herbs to excite the appetite, live yoghurt to fortify the digestive tract, bread and cheese to line the stomach.