Arrive early at Quaglino’s if you can, for to experience this great room briefly devoid of customers is to enjoy the restaurant at its most deliciously theatrical. The stage is set: a glittering, glamorous affair of light and space. You enter through a reception area of warm honeyed stone that leads you down a first sweeping staircase into the bar area. This is on a mezzanine platform that projects into the room and connects to the main floor below by another imposing flight of marble stairs, which are flanked by gleaming bronze handrails incorporating the shining ‘Q’ motif.