Meats

Most Italian groceries outside of Italy stock what they call Genoa salami, which is made entirely of pork. This bears only the most distant connection to salame di Sant’Olcese, which is the salami Ligurians eat. This salami is made of ground veal and pork, and is unmistakable in flavor and delicacy. It is not currently available in North America, but some importers may soon bring it in. If you live in a country in which you can import salamis without problems, consider acquiring some if you are in Genoa. My favorite source is Fratelli Centanauro, which is near the Oriental Market (the market too has good salami and cheese sellers). For importers reading this book, I also include the address of Salumificio Parodi, which makes the best salame di Sant’Olcese I have tasted. If you cannot get salame di Sant’Olcese, substitute a soft, sweet, slightly garlicky salami. If you need certain specialty meats for some recipes in this book, in North America contact D’Artagnan.