Modern Cuisine

Appears in
My Rio de Janeiro: A Cookbook

By Leticia Moreinos Schwartz

Published 2013

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This chapter takes us to another lovely neighbourhood of Rio, Flamengo and Botafogo (which also happen to be names of football teams), where restaurants like Nomangue and Irajá are serving up modern cuisine near the Pão de Açucar, another landmark situated at nearby Urea.

Brazil is changing, and Rio is changing with it, undergoing a revival and reasserting itself. Since I left Rio in 1997, dining in the city has been getting better all the time, with contemporary trends mixing with Brazilian ingredients. Rio is proof that economic growth and prosperity are precursors to a flourishing cuisine, and the current wave of restaurants in this corner of Rio is a perfect example of this progress. Visit Nomangue and you’ll taste another twist on feijoada. The classic black bean stew is a dish you can find all over Rio; shellfish feijoada, on the other hand, is a unique variation and among Nomangue’s bestselling menu items. At Belmonte, a botequim rooted in this area, hearts of palm soup is offered in small bowls before enjoying petiscos (finger food). At Irajá the inspiration for cooking hot brigadeiro cake is basically the same as making brigadeiro itself: it starts with a mixture of sweetened condensed milk and chocolate, then butter, eggs and flour are mixed in. I like to serve it with homemade ginger ice cream, but shop-bought ice cream is also fine. The result is phenomenal and a taste of Rio itself - always hot, very sexy and with a spice for life.