The Tale of Oranges

Appears in
The Route to Parsi Cooking: From Pars to India and Beyond

By Niloufer Mavalvala

Published 2024

  • About
For foodies like myself, anecdotes stemming from a particular food source are not just intriguing, they are the very essence of food.

When Zoroastrians who had migrated to India returned to Persia to trade spices, they invited their brethren who still lived there, to bring their expertise in cooking and set up chai khanas (tea houses) in Bombay and Poona. The birth of these cafes heralded a new era for the migrants, who were now referred to as Parsis by the locals. In these tea houses, Berry Palau with candied orange peel was sold by the plate, along with the mouth-watering jam and cream puffs, meat and vegetable patties, and khari biscuits all of which fulfilled the Parsis’ passion for ‘puff’ pastry.