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Poultry

Appears in
Saffron Shores: Jewish Cooking of the Southern Mediterranean

By Joyce Goldstein

Published 2002

  • About

Once upon a time in the Mediterranean, chicken was more costly than meat, and hens were considered specially valuable for the many eggs they supplied and that were used throughout the year in a myriad of dishes. Chicken was served on the Sabbath and at holidays, and still is. It is the signature dish for Yom Kippur because of the custom of kapparoth. where a chicken is slaughtered as a symbolic sacrifice for every member of the family. Chicken is used in stews as a lighter and more elegant alternative to meat. Algerians prefer braised chicken with their couscous. Many birds, such as turkeys, pigeon, and small chickens, are stuffed with meat and grains for a festive presentation. Sauces might be sweetened by the addition of honey or fruits, or caramelized onions cooked to a confit. Or they might be savory, with spiced onions, preserved lemons, and briny cured olives. Poultry is the basis of a spectacular holiday pastry, b’stilla. It is also paired with noodles for a homey family meal, ground for meatballs, baked into a sturdy meat loaf, and added to omelets and soups to make them more substantial.

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